Wednesday, February 2, 2011

Aldehyde Perfumes: The secret of the contemporary perfumery

The formula of the first aldehyde perfumes from respected perfumer Ernest byuksa could glorify not one fashionable house, but precisely mademoiselle of spinners perceived in the strong and concentrated aroma future. Its aldehyde perfumes Of chanel of №5 became the standard of the new era of perfumery - the era of synthetic aromas. And despite the fact that distinguished perfumers speak about the naturalness of perfume composition as about the basic basis of any perfumes, here already one hundred years aldehyde aromas do not surrender their positions, continuing to gladden women.

As the aldehyde perfumes appeared

A number of discoveries preceded the victory of aldehyde smells. Perfumes were until 1889 made exclusively from the natural components, with the application of complex technologies, which considerably increased their price. From the middle of the 19th Century the chemists learned to analyze the composition of smells and the first studies, which in 1874 made possible to obtain the first synthetic aroma - the smell of vanilla, began, it followed the second discovery - coumarin (artificial accent of green fern). There was in 1884 cracked the secret of musk. The most widely known perfumers, such as Gerlach and Hobigan, began the experiments with the new substances, which were ended by the appearance of the first in the world half artificial perfumes of  Jicky, which were based on sandalwood tree and coumarin. In order to create the note of lily into Quelques Fleurs (1912), Hobigan it also used the chemical substance, which was called gidroksitsitronellal. And only after ten years appeared the first completely synthetic aroma - Chanel of №5.


In 1920 by Coco Chanel it greeted one of the most widely known perfumers - Ernest byuksa, long time of that worked in one of the most distinguished perfume houses Rallet in Grasse in provence, Mecca French perfumers. Byuksa only developed the new formula, which he first proposed to one of the most distinguished perfume houses the 20th century - Coty. After learning the cost of novelty in the production, company refused to let out this cheap product. Chanel reaction was completely opposite: the refined and thinned aroma - precisely that it so for long searched for in order to begin its own perfume history. By the agreement of the sides byuksa it began to work at the prototype again.

Basic components in parfume was May rose, Ylang-Ylang, jasmine, civet, neroli, and also musk with the notes of wood and vanilla. But only if Brooks added aldehydes, Chanel of №5 acquired its characteristic, slightly synthetic aroma. Since then the production of perfumes became mass.

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